Licorice Extract: Glabridin, Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Why It Brightens Without Irritating
Most brightening actives come with a catch: they irritate, and on Indian skin irritation is itself a cause of darkening. Licorice extract is the exception that makes the others usable. Its main flavonoid, glabridin, is a genuine tyrosinase inhibitor, and the rest of the root brings anti-inflammatory compounds that calm the skin while the brighteners work. That is why it appears in our Whitening Peel and in the serum we write for acne marks — not as the star, but as the ingredient that lets the stars be tolerated. This page explains what is in the extract, what each part does, and why a 3% component earns its place.
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What licorice extract is
The extract comes from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra — the same plant that gives mulethi its sweetness and has a long history in Indian and Chinese medicine for throat and skin complaints. For skincare the root is extracted and standardised for its active compounds, which fall into two groups with two different jobs.
The compounds that matter
| Compound | Class | What it does in skin |
|---|---|---|
| Glabridin | Flavonoid | Inhibits tyrosinase and blocks UV-induced pigmentation and inflammation; the main brightening agent |
| Liquiritin | Flavonoid glycoside | Helps disperse and remove existing melanin from the surface layers |
| Glycyrrhizin / glycyrrhetinic acid | Triterpenoid saponins | Anti-inflammatory — damps redness and itching, with a soothing effect similar in direction to a mild topical steroid, without being one |
| Isoliquiritigenin | Chalcone | Antioxidant; supports the tyrosinase-inhibiting action |
How it brightens without irritating
Glabridin slows tyrosinase, the enzyme that starts melanin production, and reduces the signalling that UV light uses to switch melanocytes on. Laboratory work shows it does this without being toxic to the pigment cells themselves — the melanocyte is told to slow down, not damaged, which is the distinction between a brightener you can use for years and one that risks patchy white spots. In the same extract, glycyrrhetinic acid reduces the inflammatory cascade that follows sun, friction or a breakout. Because inflammation is what tells melanocytes to make more pigment on Indian skin, calming it is itself a brightening strategy: less irritation now means fewer marks later.
The effect of licorice on its own is modest and gradual. Its value is as a multiplier — it lets kojic acid, arbutin and glycolic acid be used at effective strengths with a lower irritation cost, and it addresses the inflammatory component of pigmentation that pure tyrosinase inhibitors ignore.
Kojic acid — the stronger, more sensitising brightener it partners →
How we use licorice extract at AI Aesthetics
| Where | Role |
|---|---|
| Whitening Peel (3% licorice extract with 15% glycolic, 10% lactic, 10% kojic acid, 10% arbutin) | The calming counterweight — three strong brighteners and two exfoliating acids are tolerable in one peel largely because licorice is in it |
| Home-care serum for acne marks (with 10% encapsulated azelaic acid and kojic acid dipalmitate) | Adds anti-inflammatory calming and a third tyrosinase mechanism to a daily serum for sensitive, pigment-prone skin |
| Calming and barrier steps in sensitive-skin facials | Soothes redness-prone skin after exfoliation or extraction, alongside aloe and the ice probe |
The treatment engine never selects licorice extract as a corrective in its own right; it does not have the strength. It appears wherever the plan combines brightening with a skin that needs protecting from the brightening — which in Jaipur is most skins.
Azelaic acid — the lead active in the same marks serum →
Arbutin — the gentler brightener alongside it in the Whitening Peel →
Licorice extract and Jaipur skin
- Sun-and-irritation pigmentation — the darkening that follows a day outdoors, a waxing session or a rash — is the pattern licorice addresses best, because it acts on both the UV signal and the inflammation.
- Sensitive and redness-prone skin that reacts to kojic acid or glycolic peels can often tolerate the Whitening Peel precisely because licorice is in the formula; the engine still checks barrier scores first.
- Summer: it is a brightener that does not add sun sensitivity, so it stays in a daytime routine under sunscreen when exfoliating acids are paused.
- After threading, waxing or laser hair removal, a licorice-containing calming serum reduces the post-inflammatory darkening that is common on the upper lip and underarms.
- Melasma support: safe to continue through pregnancy as a topical, alongside sun protection, when stronger actives have to stop.
Who should avoid licorice extract
- A known allergy to licorice or to plants of the pea family — rare, but patch test if in doubt
- Open or infected skin, for leave-on use
- Nothing else of note for topical use. Oral licorice in large amounts can raise blood pressure and lower potassium, but that is a property of swallowing the root, not applying an extract to the face
Topical licorice extract is considered appropriate in pregnancy and breastfeeding, is compatible with every brightening and acne active we use, and has no interaction with peels or lasers beyond the general rule of waiting a few days after a corrective treatment before resuming leave-on actives.
What to expect
On its own: a gradual calming of redness within a couple of weeks and a slow evening of tone over two to three months. In the Whitening Peel: a more comfortable peel with less post-peel redness and a lower chance of rebound darkening than the same acids without it. In the marks serum: steady fading of post-acne marks over eight to twelve weeks with daily use and sunscreen. Licorice extract is a supporting active and performs like one — reliably, quietly, over time. Results vary from person to person.
Where we use Licorice Extract (Glabridin) at AI Aesthetics
The treatments at our C-Scheme clinic that actually include it — each page explains the full protocol, suitability and price.
Licorice extract: frequently asked questions
What does licorice extract do for skin?
Its flavonoid glabridin slows the pigment enzyme tyrosinase and blocks UV-driven pigmentation, while its triterpenoids calm inflammation and redness. It brightens gradually and makes stronger brighteners easier to tolerate.
What is glabridin?
The main active flavonoid in licorice root — a tyrosinase inhibitor that works without damaging pigment cells, which is why licorice is suitable for long-term brightening use.
Is licorice extract in your peels?
Yes — the Whitening Peel contains 3% licorice extract alongside glycolic and lactic acids, kojic acid and arbutin, where it calms the skin and lowers the irritation cost of the brighteners.
Does licorice extract lighten skin?
It evens tone and fades sun- and inflammation-related marks gradually. It does not change natural skin colour and is not used for that.
Is licorice extract good for sensitive skin?
Yes. Its anti-inflammatory compounds make it one of the few brighteners that redness-prone and reactive skin tolerates, and it is used in our calming steps for exactly that reason.
Is licorice extract safe in pregnancy?
Topical licorice extract is considered appropriate in pregnancy and breastfeeding, and it is one of the brighteners that can continue when stronger actives stop.
Can licorice extract raise blood pressure?
Eating large amounts of licorice root can; applying a standardised extract to the skin does not. The two are different exposures.
Does licorice extract help melasma?
As a supporting active — it reduces the UV and inflammatory signals that drive melasma and is safe long term. Melasma plans still rely on tranexamic acid, sun protection and sometimes a doctor’s prescription.
Can I use licorice extract with kojic acid, arbutin or azelaic acid?
Yes; it is formulated with all three in our peels and serums precisely because it lets them be used at effective strengths with less irritation.
How long does licorice extract take to work?
Calming within a couple of weeks; evening of tone over two to three months of consistent use with sunscreen. Results vary from person to person.
